As produce continues to nudge protein out of the spotlight, many chefs and operators feel out of step with the veg-centric dining trend. I\u2019ve received feedback from restaurant professionals across the country who say vegetarian dining doesn\u2019t fit with their concept. Many wonder why they should build their menu around vegetarians. The answer is \u201dThey shouldn\u2019t.\u201d And neither should you. Veg-Centric is not a restaurant theme\u2014it is an emerging menu part that in many cases is replacing the category of “sides”. Additionally, it differs from vegetarian in that many of the dishes contain meat or seafood protein elements and thus are not meatless dishes. <\/p>\n
This is a seismic shift in the way Americans are eating. It\u2019s not about taking away but rather about adding more: more flavor, more options, more creativity. It\u2019s about keeping the steak and upping the ante with fire-roasted carrots and salsa verde. It\u2019s about paying produce the same respect as the protein. Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, and carrot (peels, stems, and all) happily share space with sweet potatoes, bok choy, and broccolini, by turns anointed with bacon or crispy pork belly, dollops of cr\u00e8me fraiche, bone marrow, rich broth glazes, or sublime chunks of duck confit. By using aggressive cooking methods\u2014e.g., wood-grilling, charring, and roasting\u2014seasonal produce takes on sensational flavor worthy of a star turn on the plate.<\/p>\n
While most customers equate vegetables with healthy eating, veg-centric cooking puts flavor first, and it\u2019s this ethos that has paved the way for its success. A great example is the delicata squash stuffed with chorizo and greens at Untitled at the Whitney Museum in New York City. Served on a base of squash pur\u00e9e, its double punch of flavor is amplified by the piquant chorizo and earthy greens.<\/p>\n
Winter squash is highly economical, ridiculously versatile, and has widespread appeal, so it\u2019s no surprise that we\u2019re seeing it become a star ingredient. Restaurant Santina in New York serves a winter-squash carpaccio: paper-thin ribbons of squash brushed with olive oil and caramelized to order with a handheld torch. The squash is then topped with cumin-scented labneh and pumpkin seeds. <\/p>\n
Publican in Chicago covers an avocado salad with thin-shaved squash ribbons tossed in olive oil and vadouvan spice (a French derivative of Indian masala), fresh grapes, and sunflower seeds for an unlikely combination that evokes those delicious days between summer\u2019s end and the first crisp days of fall.<\/p>\n
Simpler preparations are no less enticing; slices of tempura-battered Kabocha squash, ready for dunking in a sweet soy dipping sauce, bring street food to a whole new level at the takeaway window of Susan Feniger\u2019s Mud Hen Tavern in Los Angeles.<\/p>\n
Fancy toast. It\u2019s really a thing. And why not? For years we\u2019ve happily gobbled up bruschetta\u2014and have loved all the colorful and flavorful combinations that took toast beyond standard at-home breakfast fare\u2014so it\u2019s not a huge stretch to reboot the concept with outside-the-box toppings.<\/p>\n
Start with a flavorful spread\u2014either a soft cheese or a rich vegetable pur\u00e9e\u2014on thick-sliced toast. To me, a nice artisan sourdough is perfect: rustic with a crisp crust and toothsome crumb. Timna in New York layers grilled bread with sweetbreads, grilled corn, and lamb belly on a schmear of smoked butternut-squash pur\u00e9e. Zinc Caf\u00e9 in Los Angeles tops toast with a rich cauliflower pur\u00e9e, grilled asparagus, and white cheddar. Vegetable jams, like the spicy-tomato version at Chicken and Farm Shop in LA, are perfect topped with a boiled egg.<\/p>\n
The crudit\u00e9 platter is a super retro throwback, but today\u2019s fresh take features a wider array of vegetables. It often includes miniature or heirloom varieties left in their whole state: miniature rainbow carrots, scrubbed but unpeeled; tiny Persian cucumbers; and crisp radishes, whose tops make a convenient handle for dipping.<\/p>\n
Because there will, of course, be dip.<\/p>\n
Far and away the No. 1 accompaniment is some version of green-goddess dressing. You can cream it up with avocado or buttermilk, strip it down to a vinaigrette, or blend it into sour cream\u2014it\u2019s versatile, delicious, and vibrantly colored. At Chicago\u2019s Boeuf Haus, crudit\u00e9s resemble a bouquet, nestled on a bed of ice in a cocktail glass, resplendent with bell peppers, green beans, daikon radish, and creamy green-goddess dipping sauce. Bonus points for dramatic presentation: fresh greenery (like celery leaves, chives, and carrot or fennel fronds) adds visual depth; cracked ice keeps the veggies crisp and cool.<\/p>\n
If you\u2019re just starting to consider adding veg-centric dishes to your menu, I recommend replacing simple side dishes with more complex vegetable small plates. Get inspired by specialty and heirloom varieties, whose fleeting season often means they\u2019re not available on the conventional mass market\u2014this is one of the best reasons to visit your local farmers market. Veg-centric dining is a huge opportunity; let\u2019s make the most of it.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Veg-centric is about shifting produce to the center of the plate and bringing out its flavor with aggressive cooking methods.<\/p>","protected":false},"author":19,"featured_media":4369,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[68],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-4368","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-culinary-ideas"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\n